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I am back home after a week long young adult surf camp for people who have or who have had cancer. I am finding it very hard being at home right now and want to be back in the ocean. It was so nice to escape reality and and just let go of my fears with each crashing wave. I was so scared at the beginning of my urostomy and damaging my stoma (even though I had a protector on) and then once I got into the ocean it all just disappeared and I couldn’t wait for the next wave! The group was amazing too…we didn’t dwell on the fact we had cancer or just got over treatment…we just hung out and with each unspoken word we all got it. If medical help wasn’t so expensive I would move to California tomorrow!!
HOw we all wish eh? I’m so glad that you had a great time. I feel that way when I go to Nanaimo or back in 2008 when I went to Hawaii. The ocean is awesome. I’m not a surfer but do plan to try to boogie board when I make a return trip to Hawaii in the future. Until then I content myself with searching for shells and interesting stones on the beach. I hope that you took lots of pictures.
Wow what an adventurer you are. I’m glad you had the chance to do this, but of course all of us here already know how brave you are. Nothing like sun & ocean to lift your spirits. Glad you had fun & perhaps you can daydream the day away when nasty winter shows it’s head in the coming months. Kudos to you.
FloI did my doctoral work in California and I want to go back too. But Texans can’t do that. I sure do miss the surfing though. Well, and the girls.
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